What's a triathlon specific bike?

In a nutshell, it's a bike that's designed to put the rider in a more aerodynamic position than a conventional road bike. This is usually achieved by shifting the rider forward with a steeper seat tube angle. The steeper angle allows the rider to maintain a proper hip angle while riding on the aero-bars.

For a much more thorough explanation, go to http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/bikefit.html or http://www.trinewbies.com/

John Cobb has some nice pictures on his web site too. Search for the Big Slam 3 article. (http://www.bicyclesports.com/). Look at the difference between the top 2 pictures (the classic tri-position) and the bottom 2 pictures (a classic road position). See how the rider's back is reasonably flat and his center of gravity is shifted forward a tad.

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Do I need a triathlon bike?

No. Most people don't NEED a tri-bike. Plenty of triathletes (including some pros) ride modified road bikes, and do quite well. So why get a tri-bike? Because a tri-bike may offer some benefits over a typical road bike set-up.

Pros:

• Potentially more aerodynamic than a conventional road-bike
• Better balance when riding on aero-bars
• Position places less effort on the quads, saving them for the run.

Cons:

• Not as comfortable
• Doesn't climb as well
• $$$$. If you already have a road bike, you'll have to shell out some extra $$$$.

Stick with a road bike if you: a) already own a road bike and don't plan on racing very much; b) live in a very hilly area; c) plan on using this bike for long, epic rides.

If you plan on doing a lot of triathlons/duathlons on this bike, then consider a tri-bike.

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How do I find a bike that fits?

Good question. There's no one right answer, since the answer depends on your proportions, budget, and needs. Here are some good articles to get you started:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html

http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/bikefit.html

There are three parameters that matter most in fitting someone to a bike: 1) saddle height; 2) saddle-to-bar distance; and 3) fore/aft saddle position. All three need to be addressed in order to provide a stable center of gravity that balances efficiency and comfort.

Things to look for:

1. Saddle Height. Position yourself so that you can extend your leg through the down stroke just to the point before you begin to rock your hips. If you need a huge seat post, then the frame may be too small. If you have to push the seat so far down that you barely see the post, then the frame may be too big.
2. Reach to Bars. Raise/lower lengthen/shorten the stem in order to find a position where you feel balanced. Not too much weight on your hands/butt. Again, if you need a super long stem, then the top tube is too short. Most stems fall in the 95-120 range . If you need a stubby stem, then it may be too long. Stems that are too long/short can affect the way the bike handles/steers, so don't believe a salesman when he pulls out a bazooka stem and says it will ride fine.
3. Stand-Over. This is NOT a crucial element in bike fit. However, you should ensure that you have some clearance between your crotch and the top-tube.

No formula works for everyone, so your best bet is to go to a reputable bike shop and get professional help.

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What's all the fuss about aerodynamics?

What if I told you I could make you faster without making you work any harder? Sound good? Well, by getting aero, you'll do exactly that, go faster without expending any additional energy. Since 75% of your power is used to overcome aerodynamic drag, there are huge benefits to modest aerodynamic improvements.

The amount of improvement will depend on your current set-up. If you've already got a reasonably aero bike/position, the benefits will be marginal (mere seconds in a 40k race). If you race on a mountain bike with 26x2 knobby tires and wear baggy shorts/t-shirts, then we may be able to take off a few minutes (depending on the length of the race).

So how do you get more aero? Every bit counts, from a better position to zipping up that flapping jersey. Here are some of the more obvious ways to reduce aerodynamic drag.

1. Ride in a tucked position.

   Your torso creates an enormous amount of drag. You must find a way to get the air to flow over/around your body more efficiently. The most common way to achieve this is by riding in a tuck with a flat or rounded back. This is why you see people riding on their aero bars.

   Finding the right position on your aerobars can not be addressed adequately in a FAQ. Get some help with this. Since we all have different proportions and lower back shapes/flexibility, there is no clear set-up that works for everyone. Find a reputable shop or a knowledgeable friend to help you out with this. And don't forget to practice riding in this position before you race. It takes some getting used to.

2. Get some aero wheels.

   The next place to look is your wheels. Aero wheels offer a noticeable improvement under most racing conditions. Under wind tunnel conditions, the difference can be up to a few minutes in a 40k race. Unfortunately, there are no definitive rules on which wheel design is more aero than the next, so do your research and select a wheel set that fits your budget, ability level, and expected race terrain.

3. Consider an aero frame

   The amount of drag attributable to the frame is not as high as the rider and the wheels, but it can make a difference. Probably not enough to justify getting a new frame, but if you're in the market for a new bike, it's something to think about.

4. Other

Every bit counts. You can further reduce drag by (in no particular order):

1. Buying aero bike components (bladed fork, aero handlebars, etc)
2. Wearing a skin suit
3. Wearing an aero helmet
4. Tucking that camelbak under your jersey
5. Shaving your legs (just kidding)
   

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What if I'm not comfortable in the aero position?

Riding in the aero position is not the most comfortable position. You must balance aerodynamics with comfort/efficiency. It's not worth sacrificing power (or comfort for the long-course racers) in order to get more aerodynamic. Experiment. There's usually a workable compromise. Don't be afraid to raise the stem, or shorten/lengthen your reach in order to get more comfortable.

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Which is more important, aero or light?

If I had to choose, I'd say go with aero. Here's my rationale:

Weight is mainly a concern when you're either accelerating/decelerating frequently or climbing. Once you get up to speed, poor aerodynamics will hurt you more than an extra pound on your bike. According to John Cobb's web site, dropping 3 pounds off your bike reduces your 40k time by mere seconds. Reducing 1/2 pound of drag, on the other hand, can take of over a minute.

Since triathletes mainly ride in a straight line, we're not too concerned about accelerating/decelerating around corners like road racers. Climbing, on the other hand, may affect some of us in hillier areas, but I'd still be inclined to lean toward aero.

So why worry about weight? Because all things being equal, it takes less effort to move a lighter bike than a heavier bike. If your bike weighs a ton, then you would benefit from lightening the load.

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What's the difference between all of the frame materials out there?

I'm no metallurgist, so I can't discuss the scientific differences between each of the materials. The following is a brief summary of the major metals out there:

Material	Advantages	Disadvantages
Steel (aka chromoly)	Strong, easy to work with, fails in a predictable manner (as opposed to sudden or catastrophic), forgiving ride, cheap.	Rusts and is a bit heavier than the other exotic metals
Aluminum	Resists corrosion, light, reasonably cheap.	Not easily repairable, fails catastrophically, generally rides harsher than steel/ti/carbon fiber.
Titanium	Strong, resists corrosion, light, repairable.	Expensive, hard to weld.
Carbon Fiber	Strong, doesn't corrode, light, forgiving ride.	Expensive, hard to repair, fails catastrophically, some say has ride has a dead feel.

Not only are there different types of materials, but there are also variations within materials. There are certain brands of steel that I'd buy over some cheap titanium alloys. Therefore, you must do some homework to determine if a bike is a good deal based solely on type of metal.

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Are 650c wheels better than 700c wheels?

No. There is no clear winner here. Both size wheel have their virtues and faults. 650s are smaller, lighter, accelerate and climb better, and work well with the tri-geometry. However, they're less comfortable, decelerate faster, and are not nearly as available as 700s. In most cases, the 650 vs 700 decision will not affect the outcome of your race. Take whatever wheels come with the bike.

There are, however, two groups of people who should strongly consider one wheel over the other: Riders with really long/short legs. Shorter riders who ride small frames can greatly benefit from a 650c wheel, since it lowers the bike height (thus giving you more standover clearance) and reduces the chance for toe overlap. Tall riders, on the other hand, should stick with 700c wheels, since 650s on a large frame requires an insanely large head tube, and doesn't really offer tall riders many benefits.

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What's the difference between clinchers and tubulars?

Tubular wheels do not have an inner-tube and are glued on the rim to hold them in place. Clincher wheels use inner-tubes and stay secure due to the tire bead/rim relationship and air pressure. Most of us use clinchers. Each set has it's pros/cons. Tubulars are less prone to pinch flats, arguably have a more comfortable ride, and are lighter. However, they're more expensive, are more difficult to repair, and are bulkier (you have to carry an extra tire on you when you ride, as opposed to an inner-tube when you ride with clinchers). Clinchers are cheaper, offer a ton of choices, and are easier to repair. However, their heavier (I'm including the weight of the rim here) and more prone to pinch-flats. Clincher technology has advanced to the point where the advantages of tubular tires over clinchers has diminished considerably. Choose whichever tire fits your needs.

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What should I carry with me on a ride?

There are a few items that you should NEVER ride without:

1. Helmet
2. Spare tube or patch kit/tire levers*
3. Pump/CO2 cartridges*

*  If you do not know how to change a tire, ask an experienced friend or a local bike shop to show you how BEFORE you go out on a long ride! 

Here are some other items that you should consider bringing with you:

1. Water
2. Multi-tool
3. Money
4. ID
5. Cell phone­ if going on a long ride or riding in unfamiliar areas
   

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